General equations

xo = tan b (Ho/Lo) -0.5

Lo = gT2/2p

 

Definition of variables

b = angle of beach slope

tan b = beach slope

ds = depth fronting slope

dsw = median grain size in mm of sediment in swash zone

dsr = median grain size in mm of sediment in swash zone

g = gravitational acceleration

H = wave height

Ho = deep water wave height

Horms = root mean square deep water wave height

Hso = significant deep water wave height

L = wavelength

Lo = deep water wavelength

Lzwm = vertical scale for Rayleigh distributed wave runup values (Nielsen and Hanslow, 1991)

No = surf zone fall velocity parameter

R = mean runup for irregular waves or runup for regular waves

R2% = two percent wave runup

T = wave period

wsr  = fall velocity of median size sediment in surf zone

xo = Iribarren number or surf similarity parameter